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Author Topic: Aluminium corrosion - repair & paint  (Read 3280 times)
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ligure
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« on: May 17, 2013, 11:47:52 PM »

As this is my opening post on The Board I'd like to make a preamble and greet all members, expressing my appreciation for the valuable knowledge they share. I will also confess being a complete novice to boat maintenance, and apologise if some of my questions might seem simple to the more experienced members of this forum; I guess we all started somewhere (the search function first of all)

Now, question one:
I own a Savage Kestrel 400 aluminium hull and, although not vintage as some of the boats I read of on this forum, it needs some attention and being my first boat it holds a special meaning.
The gunwhales are fitted with press studs fixed with s/s fittings which caused electrolytic corrosion and bubbling of paint. I have removed the fittings and want to remove and stop any traces of corrosion; what would be the best method to do so, and what are some easily obtainable products?

Question two
To repaint the gunwhales after having cleaned the corrosion, I intend applying a thin layer of etch primer such as White Knight Rust Guard S.L.S that should also help stopping the corrosion and is easily obtainable from Bunnings; could I then apply a marine single pack paint as a final top coat or is an undercoat needed? I think Whitworths would sell both

Last question
How can I date the manufacturing year of the boat?
The riveted yellow plate on the inside of the hull simply reports basic performance data and the serial No.
Two previous owners before me and all I can gather is mid-late 80s

Many thanks

Ps. It carries a Mercury 20hp two strokes I dated to 1986
« Last Edit: May 17, 2013, 11:49:27 PM by ligure » Logged

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senojn
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« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2013, 05:30:24 PM »

A warm welcome to 'The Board '  ligure .

Being a wooden boat man I can't be of much assistance but you should get responses from specialized members .

As to painting , you will probably find on the Rust Guard S.L.S instruction as to the best next steps.

Intrigued by your Latin  'The waves rushed into the enemy ' and profile insignia of seagoing crocodile ?  Cool

Cheers Neil
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ligure
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« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2013, 05:11:13 PM »

Hi Neil
I have set aside next weekend to start work on the gunwhales, and will look into more products at Whitworths this week; but I think I got the basics right ... rub off corrosion with a lightly abrasive and rust retardant paste, etch prime, undercoat, marine single pack finishing coat

In as far as the insigna of a crocodile edging between water and land ... a long story but ... this is for the Italian Navy's elite forces "Incursori" of which my father was a member and later their commander. (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comando_Raggruppamento_Subacquei_e_Incursori_Teseo_Tesei)
The Latin is their motto which would perhaps best translate as: From the ocean we break onto the enemy.
I suppose the equivalent Australian would be Navy's Clearance Divers, recently well described in a book by Gregor Salmon "Navy Divers"

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senojn
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« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2013, 07:25:49 PM »

G'day ligure ,
Think you are on the right track re painting .

Although off topic .
Appreciate the Latin background .
Enjoy anything maritime related and this is certainly different .

Thanks and cheers ,

Neil
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yochemin
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« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2013, 06:57:41 PM »

Hi Ligure

Couple of things to  think about as you go
wet&dry 120g least messy option, with a dab of liquid soap
Rinse then POR metal ready, works well with aluminium, rinse again
when dry, really dry! Very IMPORTANT etch prime as soon as DRY
etch primer works best applied thinly(see through nearly)
two  coats of undercoat, Whitties sell Norglass, good Aus marine paint, no sanding between, 12hour recoat
240g wet rub
two coats gloss, no sanding between overnight drying
Don't paint to late in the arvo unless inside, cold can alter gloss level
It should stay there awhile

Good luck,  Steve
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ligure
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2013, 10:08:15 PM »

Thank you Steve
I have indeed procured myself all Norglass products, including a satin gloss topcoat more appropriate for a well used tinnie as suggested on another thread in this forum
Yes ... dry & CLEAN are key factors

Thanks
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ligure
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« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2013, 05:03:31 PM »

For those who might be interested:

Today I removed all SS fittings, sanded off all traces of rust & corrosion, as well as bubbled & flaky paint
Discovered once again that quicker & faster doesn't necessarily mean better .... a solid work out by hand with a nylon scrubber gives much better results than using an angle grinder with a fine disk.

Tomorrow acetone clean and then no rust primer
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