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Author Topic: Capricious - The Project  (Read 51630 times)
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AaronJ
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« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2010, 05:59:43 AM »

Thick skin is not in short supply so go for it as I am just toying with ideas. And yes... I do seem a bit stuck on some kind of linear striping.

Back to Photoshop.....
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AaronJ
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« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2010, 12:11:09 PM »

Was playing with the sander today and thought it was a good opportunity to take a photo which shows the three colour history of Capricious.

1. The original gel-coat is a aquary-sky-baby blue on the deck and a white hull.

2. It then looks like it got a light coat of white undercoat and heavy yellow top coat. I can't quite work it out but the yellow does not seem to be all over so may have been some kind of broad pattern.

3. Next was heavy layer of white undercoat, then red oxide undercoat and the current topcoat of deep blue.



I have a question though... I am currently using an orbital sander (with the rectangle sanding pad) and it is SLOW work even with 60 grit.

I'm hesitant to go courser with the grit as to protect the gel coat (even though I'll be painting over it). I also tried a big belt dander but its too hard to control and sands belt groves into the gel coat.

I was thinking a rotary orbital sander might be the fastest solution.

What have you guys found the best method of getting old layers of paint off?

Anyone used paint stripper? Would it damage the f'glass or be an issue if there was residue left in the cracks of the gel coat??



Oh....... and I could not help myself....... Original colour scheme + my stripes + white gunwale rubber (which it originally had) and polished alloy windscreen frame:

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Chair
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« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2010, 02:40:05 PM »

Cheers


* aarons torcoise1.jpg (36.03 KB, 640x480 - viewed 280 times.)
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MERCMAN
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« Reply #18 on: November 21, 2010, 08:09:21 PM »

Hey Aaron, why don't you send our member Darrcoll a PM.
He is a genuine Shipwright. He'll steer you in the right direction an how to strip her back easily.

MERCMAN.

PS. For what it's worth, I don't like the stripes either. The stripes didn't appear on cars or boats until way after your lovely little vessel was built. However, it's entirely up to you Cool
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It's perfectly safe.. unless something goes wrong!
darrcoll
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« Reply #19 on: November 22, 2010, 09:24:26 AM »

Hi Aaron, Shipwright to the rescue.. Re the paintwork.. a random orbital will the quickest and easiest way to get a food finish. Don't be afraid to use 80g discs to start with. once all boat is sanded look for obvious defects and pin holes. Grind any star cracks and fill everything with an epoxy filler. (use epoxy for everything as polyester or car bog will shrink) sand filled areas. this could be a long process if you want a baby bum finish but is well worth the effort. SPRAY a high build epoxy undercoat, the most economical is JOTUN high build, about $100 for a 4 litre pack. Other brands are Sterling or international. Are you in Sydney, If so. Paint is available from Marineware At Rozelle or SCOMAR at deewhy. Once undercoated let cure for a couple of days. I would normally sand next day but you are in no hurry. Before you sand go over the area and fine fill any pinholes. the best product for this is CAM (available from scomar) filler, it is polyester but you are using a very small amount. when you are happy with filling, sand with 220-320g paper, use a guide coat as well, spray matt black on area first. this will prove invaluable for those unseen pinholes and help you keep track of where you are up to with the sander.

When happy with the surface. mask up where you dint want paint to go ( actually this should be done before undercoat and leave it there till finished) Red fineline plastic tame will give you the sharpest lines. use some wax and grease remover (similar to turps) and be sure to wipe off all excess with dry rag. Time to spray. Best paint AWLgrip2000, lots of colours available from marineware at Rozelle. for painting 2.0mm tip in gun for undercoat and 1.4mm tip in gun for topcoat.


If you want to do different colours, eg stripes. Paint whole boat with base colour then mask stripes as required. leave a day or so between colours.

Last thing when applying topcoat 1st coat is a light mist or tack coat. second coat is slightly heavier but should give good coverage. the last coat should be a wet coat and give good coverage. allow 40-45min between coats.
Let me know if you have any Q's. cheers Darrell
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Darrcoll    Don't tell me about BOATS
AaronJ
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« Reply #20 on: November 28, 2010, 08:02:06 PM »

Hi Darell and thanks for the detailed reply. Really helpful stuff!

To start... here is 8'ish hours of work with another 2 hours to finish the deck:




That bloodly layer of yellow is the killer. Harder to get off than any of the other layers and on about 80% of the deck.

I will admit that I have resorted to 60g in some places. However, no matter the g rating, I've only gone as far as taking the paint off and stopped as soon as gel-coat was hit. Obviously I'm not going to restore the GC, but I am trying too minimise material loss.

Not after a baby bum finish. Just as good as I can get with the hull, knowing it has some imperfections I'll not be able to fix (i.e. some gentle warping).

Firstly, I was not intending to spray. I planned to roll and tip as to minimise equipment, over-spraying and safety gear. Do you recommendations regarding products and steps still stand knowing that?

Cheers,
Aaron.



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darrcoll
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« Reply #21 on: December 09, 2010, 11:21:21 PM »

Hi Aaron, yes the steps are similar, the only difference being that with Awlgrip or  Sterling 2k paint systems, buy the brushing thinners and converter instead of spray. use a good quality brush and do it in the shade, you may get it done in 2 coats but will use a bit more materiel.. I would have a go a spraying myself  or hunt around for some one with a bit of talent. Spraying would take about 2-3hrs including cleanup of gun.. worth the finish..

cheers

Darrcoll
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Darrcoll    Don't tell me about BOATS
pride
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« Reply #22 on: December 10, 2010, 06:06:38 AM »

Aaron,

What a great project, will look great once done - so far so good.
I like the solid colour with thin striping that highlighted the contours of the unique hull shape - if any.

It's a great little boat you got there!

Cheers

Jd
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slowpoke
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« Reply #23 on: December 10, 2010, 10:07:38 AM »

Hi Aaron,
I am with Darcoll here - spraying will be the best choice if possible.

However, I have seen some excellent results with roll & tip.
If you decide on this method, I have two suggestions.
First, if (as many sites & instructions suggest) you use a foam brush for the tipping, be very careful that the foam does not dissolve in the paint solvents. I now believe that foam brushes available here are suitable for water paints only - the quality of the foam is not suitable for paints with powerful solvents. Yes, I came a gutsa and ended up with a messy glob bubbling and fizzing ...   TEST FIRST.
Or, secondly, use a really good quality natural hair brush - not a synthetic brush with split end fibres.
Good luck and good work.
Looking forward to seeing it done, as you are!
Ken

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AaronJ
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« Reply #24 on: December 12, 2010, 07:51:18 PM »

Thanks for the input gang. I will look more into spraying as my bro-inlaw has a gun and I think my air compressor will suffice.

Still sanding however... then I have to do the timber work (floor, dash, transom, bracing, etc) and then I can start painting.

I finished sanding the deck today (these shots where about an hour before I was done) and have started on the hull (after flipping):





Crikey I have some work to do. I knew before removing paint there were loads of small and large holes and gel coat cracks, but now with the paint off so much more is visible. Just about every type of repair you can imagine is needed in one shape, form or another!
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pride
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« Reply #25 on: December 12, 2010, 08:28:56 PM »

Aaron,

Keep up the good work mate, it's coming along nicely. Such a cool hull that one... What make/year is it?
I'm new to all this - can't say I have seen a hull like yours before but I like it.

Cheers

Jock
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AaronJ
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« Reply #26 on: December 12, 2010, 08:39:49 PM »

Well now you see Jock... that question is a sore point with me:

http://board.net.au/yabbse/index.php?topic=923.0

So you see I to have never seen another like it nor do I have any bloody idea what it is, other and Ian's teasing little bit of info!

Cheers,
Aaron.
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yochemin
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« Reply #27 on: December 13, 2010, 08:13:04 PM »

If you have her upside down Aaron , it may be a time to run a straight edge from the transom going forward make sure there 's no hook in the bottom
Can cause some major handling problems later
Also there was a really good detailed article on tip and rolling two pack , using foam rollers on the fibreglassics site a while ago
I've done quite a bit two pack and I learnt quite alot from the read
this is a photo of the hook in my  Tillicraft .

Steve


* 08082009404.jpg (53.1 KB, 640x480 - viewed 293 times.)
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AaronJ
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« Reply #28 on: December 13, 2010, 08:42:14 PM »

Will do Steve.

I ran an eye-line from one end and it looked good, but will put a straight edge up against  it to make sure.
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AaronJ
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« Reply #29 on: December 18, 2010, 06:46:16 PM »

Steve,
Straight as can be!
Which is a good thing as I already have an area of hull damage I don't think I can avoid cutting right out and re-glassing (see below).
Today's progress:

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