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Author Topic: my 67 galaxy  (Read 24856 times)
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galaxy67
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« on: February 08, 2010, 06:08:53 PM »

hows it going all ,

new to the forum

bought this old gal almost a week ago !, seems like this is the site for enthusiasts of the classic kind.
the hull seems in REALLY good shape , transom is solid ,the floor is solid, the top side has some cracks in the gelcoat from sun damage , but all in all this boat has impressed me .
i have had the motor running , re wired it under the cowel and have had to replace the gearbox ( i think that is the reason this boat has been out of action for such a long time. )
 from what i can gather it is a 1967 model , i doubt whether the 135 is the original motor as it is 4 years after the date of the hull ?
she has a 135 red band merc , no visible corrosion and semms to run fine .

i have spent a fair few hours on her in the past week already .....hanging to get her onto the water , see how she goes ....then i will tidy her up and repaint in the off season (gonna look good behind the torry)

anyways , any info on these boats and motors that you folks could share would be great

cheers

wade


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galaxy67
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2010, 06:11:15 PM »

another


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galaxy67
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« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2010, 06:12:35 PM »

fitted with a foot pedal?


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galaxy67
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2010, 06:13:35 PM »

another


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galaxy67
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2010, 06:16:01 PM »

and another .........oh and she has a rear seat and a factory bimini(needs new material but good for pattern and frame)


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MERCMAN
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2010, 07:39:57 AM »

Hi Wade,
Welcome to the Board from all of us. I response to your PM we also trust you will find all the answeres you are looking for, here!

1. You motor is a 1971 model from what I can see in the pics. Our member Mark S will be able to provide info' on your hull.
2. Factory recomended fuel ratio is 50:1. However, I suggest 40:1 just to be on the safe side as they don't like the fuels of today and they can nip pistons as you say.
3. Only use Mercury 2 stroke oil, it's a little expensive but worth it!
4. Don't use any fuel other than Unleaded. Definately no e-fuel.
5. As the boat hasn't been used for quite sometime, I'd be cleaning the carbies for sure.
6. Let me know if you need help with the replacement gearbox.

Thanks for the greart pics.

MERCMAN.
 
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It's perfectly safe.. unless something goes wrong!
Spritely
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2010, 10:53:06 AM »

Hi Wade,
Congratulations on your purchase. I was keenly following it on eBay myself.  Distance became an issue as I am in Melbourne.
I will also be picking up a Galaxy later this week. Reasonable condition, Red and White with a 115 Blue band Mercury( circa mid 70's).
Also not the original motor, however the original Mercury comes with it, as a spare.

Will post photos when I can.

Any info or suggestions greatfully received.

Simon
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galaxy67
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2010, 08:24:02 PM »

hows it going all

thanks for the replies , mercman, i was planning to run her a bit ritcher than the recommended manufacturer ratio but didn't know what that was  ....i have been running my 01 merc 15hp at 25:1 ...never fowled a plug yet ,
that merc 2 stroke oil may well be a good tip ,  i will go grab some ..........will be a damn site cheaper than a rebuild on an outboard lol
strip and clean the carbies ......good idea ...im on the tools all day at work and will add that too the list of after work maintenance and repairs before she hits the water
i have a gearbox on the way ......supposed to be a good working box ............fingers crossed

spritely she was listed on ebay , i drove an hour one way to have a look with my cousin ......i liked it ,he didn't so much we umm'd and arrr'd a lot....... to be honest ...im a classic car fan ....and this thing is growing on me ! , anyways ...i was keen and had nothing to lose at the price i bought it for ....... hence another  2 hour return trip the next day

it would be a gamble bidding on a boat without inspecting !  more so if you had to freight it accross states .
all in all im hoping she will bring me many fun timed to come



heres a pic of the crack i glassed up today after work......only real damage on the hull, looks like someone run into it ?

night all , thanks for that advise


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Mark S
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« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2010, 04:39:58 PM »

Hi Wade,
What a lovely old classic.
The Galaxy was only made in 1966 & 1967.
In 1968 it became the Cobra which was made until 1971.
Length 15'3"      Beam 74"      Weight 715 lb.
HP range 50-100.

The 135 HP red band Mercury was made in 1970 & 71.
It was not unusual of owners to update to a bigger HP back in those days
when the new model came out if they were water skiing etc.
In 1967 the biggest Mercury available was a 110HP being 93.5 cubic inch displacement. The 135 was 99.81, so it would go quite a bit harder.

Only the purist will know its not a match. The other option would be to put a cowel on it off a 110 of 1967 to make it look authentic.

You commented about caring for old straight 6 Mercs. Mercman's advice is good
plus a few more things.

1. Use Premium unleaded fuel of 95 octane. Do not use 98. No ethanol.
2. It is a good idea to retard maximum spark advance 2 degrees on all straight six Mercurys.
    This can be done static on distributor models. This reduces the risk of the timing overadvancing and detonating a piston.
3. Allow the engine to "free rev". That is revving to the maximum of the rev range at full throttle. The rev range on a 135 is 4800-5300. Have it revving as close as you can to 5300 at full throttle. ( fit the correct propeller). If you water ski it must do the same revs, so you may have to fit a smaller prop for higher load conditions.
We do this because there is now no lead in the petrol. The lead used to keep the combustion temperatures lower. In the old days you could load the engine and get away with it, this is why. By allowing the engine to free rev you reduce combustion temperatures considerably, thus reducing the risk of piston detonation or grabbing pistons.
4. Reduce the possibility of fuel leanness. Eliminate any fuel leaks, as air can be sucked in at these points. Use only Genuine manufacturers fuel connectors where possible to ensure good fuel flow and eliminating air leaks
5. Use only fresh fuel. Fuel that is 1 month old may be too old for these engines.]

Hope this is of some help. Follow these guidelines and the "Tower of power" should purr for years.

Mark S.
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Spritely
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« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2010, 08:04:00 PM »

Hi Wade

I read your and Mercmans comments about the old Mercury straight 6 engines with great interest. Tomorrow I will be the new owner of a Mercury 115  Blueband. Do the same principals apply ?

What is the problem with 98 Octane?

Do any of you guys add a Lead replacement product ?

PS The Blueband is also on a Galaxy.

Thanks
Spritely
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galaxy67
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« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2010, 08:47:16 PM »

evening all ,

been at it still ,buffed the top side , done some more glass repair and had a look at the wiring for the lights (they all worked yay), hope the gearbox arrives tomorrow ! .......hanging to get her in the water , just for a steady run ....to make sure the engine will run ok

spritely ...not that i am an expert ont these engines in particulr but from what i have been reading ,my experience with other engines ,and can decifer from the workshop manual , the basic workings of the straight 6 engines are the same  (minus some differnces in the ignition setups etc )

if you google high octane fuels in performance and 2 stroke engines you will find a mass of information about the burn rates of fuels , have a read , seems like standard octane is the go unless specified ,(found this out when trouble shooting problems with my bike).

would be keen to see some pics when you land your boat ,.................. wish my gal didn't have so much sun damage to the topside .

anyways , im done for the night these 35+ days with high humidity really knock you around after 8 hrs in a tin shed

cheers


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Mark S
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« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2010, 10:24:57 AM »

Hi Spritely,
Yes the same principals apply to your engine and all straight 6 Mercury models.

The problem with 98 octane fuel is that it is full of detergents and will wash the oil off the cylinders of a 2 stroke engine at high engine revs and can cause piston failure due to lack of lubrication. That's why a tank or 2 of this fuel is recommended to be used in your car to give your fuel injectors a clean from time to time.

It also has a very short shelf life and should be used straight away.

It is also expensive.

95 octane is a high quality fuel and is the closest match to the old leaded fuel that was 96 octane.

Mark S.
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Spritely
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« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2010, 11:02:51 AM »

Thanks Mark,

Although I don't have any affiliation with fuel companys, there are certain brands of fuel that I think are much better than others. Prior to Classic Boats, I have been involved in Motorsport with an Austin Healey Sprite for 20+ years.
Since the Days of AV Gas are a thing of the past, I would Always choose BP and Castrol first, then Mobil and   Shell a long way down the cue (mostly because fo the additives).
Any thoughts about this for older outboards ?
What about a lead replacement product ?

Thanks
Spritely
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Mark S
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« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2010, 02:47:25 PM »

Hello Spritely,

Yes you are right about fuel quality variations. I have found it varies in different regions. Where I live, Mobil has always been the best. When I've been away and filled up at Mobil stations in other regions I have sometimes not found the fuel as good and found other brands better. (Using my old classic car as the decider. Sometimes I would have to stop on the side of the road and turn the timing back to stop it pinging until the next tank full went in.) Yes there are certainly variations, and this can sometimes be the reason a piston is detonated for no reason in an outboard.

As far as additives go, nothing is as good as lead in fuel, and I don’t know of  anything that can take its place, as you mentioned with your avgas. Use a high quality 2 stroke oil as Mercman suggested and you won't need any additives.
Most additives for petrol are to reduce valve wear in 4 strokes which is not applicable to our engines.

Mercury Marine has recently released a product called “Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilzer,” part number 92-858072Q01. It is supposed to preserve fuel quality for up to 12 months. I have been speaking to a Mercury dealer and his customers have been using it and say it does work. It is available from Mercury & Mariner dealers.

Mark S.
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galaxy67
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« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2010, 09:47:39 PM »

hi again lads

OK , getting the boat ready for a run in the water (installed my new gearbox) all working well , i noticed that there was an air sucking noise coming from the side of the engine , diagnosed that it was the bottom tranfer port gasket leaking, pulled off the bottom transfer port cover and had a look around the gasket for cyl 6 was leaking ....easy fix !!!!!!, BUT it appears that number 5 cylinder has been sleeved !  and it appears that the sleeve has been walking down the bore and is now close to half covering the intake port (still has good compression sop the top ring hasn't gone over the top of the sleeve yet ). now i would never have known if the gasket wasn't leaking ........who knows how long it has been that way! .............. ANYWAYS im hoping someone can shed some light ........firstly the diagrams i have are blurry, now does the head simply unbolt like a standard 2 stroke or 4 stroke for that matter so i can get good access to the bores? from the top side to have a poke around, secondly anyone got somebody they recommend to resleeve a 2 stroke cyl block? (as long as it is viable)

and seeing as i will loose sleep over that sleeve im gonna strip the damn thing down , what is parts availability like for these engines folks?
and are the parts super pricey , or should i hunt another motor? or block? (anyone have a good spare??)

the joys of old engines , lucky im addicted to spanners lol

any help would be much appreciated

wade
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