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 91 
 on: November 28, 2017, 06:52:03 AM 
Started by yachty60 - Last post by MERCMAN
Hi I sand blasted most of the aluminium covers except the gearbox then primed with Epinamel PR250 then  Colourthane PF330 primer filler ( hi build primer ) top coat is Colourthane C Series. The fiberglass cowling was sanded back then just the PF330 and the C series top coat , these are Wattyl 2 pack industrial products I used them on a 40ft yacht I had, for an outboard a bit of over kill  but I was familiar with using them.  The Engine block I just primed then top coated. If you decide to go this way make sure you read the safety sheets and buy the best mask and filters you can. Wattyl trade centre in Springvale helped a lot to colour match the white & Polycromatic blue.

Cheers Mike G

What a fantastic result. I'm very impressed.
Was there any need to sand between primer filler and top coat, or can you spray one on top of the other soon after the primer filler has cured?
I have read about some products where you can do just that!

I really think the blue colour you have chosen, matches the blue of my 1960 10hp 'rude. It will certainly require a paint job as soon as its back together again.

MERCMAN.


 

 92 
 on: November 27, 2017, 04:54:14 PM 
Started by yachty60 - Last post by Old racer
Lovely job mate, a credit to you. When are you going to find a Stilletoe?

 93 
 on: November 25, 2017, 07:21:54 PM 
Started by yachty60 - Last post by andrewallan
Well, you've done an amazing job.

 94 
 on: November 25, 2017, 06:45:26 PM 
Started by yachty60 - Last post by yachty60
Hi I sand blasted most of the aluminium covers except the gearbox then primed with Epinamel PR250 then  Colourthane PF330 primer filler ( hi build primer ) top coat is Colourthane C Series. The fiberglass cowling was sanded back then just the PF330 and the C series top coat , these are Wattyl 2 pack industrial products I used them on a 40ft yacht I had, for an outboard a bit of over kill  but I was familiar with using them.  The Engine block I just primed then top coated. If you decide to go this way make sure you read the safety sheets and buy the best mask and filters you can. Wattyl trade centre in Springvale helped a lot to colour match the white & Polycromatic blue.

Cheers Mike G

 95 
 on: November 25, 2017, 07:04:52 AM 
Started by yachty60 - Last post by andrewallan
What sort of paint have you used? It looks great. If my Starflite survives forthcoming repairs, it really needs a repainting too.

Andrew A

 96 
 on: November 24, 2017, 07:34:44 PM 
Started by yachty60 - Last post by yachty60
Back up and running, I changed the colour to Evinrude  polychromatic blue I think they only came out in the US & Canada with the blue.
Fairly easy engine to rebuild and parts are available but you do need a good selection of hammersí & patience and maybe a sound proof  shed.  Hopefully in the next few weeks we will take it for a run in the Tarwin river then use the boat over summer at Inverloch then restore the boat over the winter .

Mike G

 97 
 on: November 22, 2017, 05:34:16 PM 
Started by Shirley 2 - Last post by MERCMAN
Extra hp is never an issue, no one will know what's under the bonnet if your fitted that block !

As for your powerhead, that's why I requested to see pics of the alleged damage earlier. Lets' see how bad the damage is first. You can send pics to my email address as well. That may show me a little better detail.

Recently, I repaired a torn fuel pump diaphragm in my own single banger 4hp Yamaha, with Loctite branded superglue. It's still working like a little champ!
The interweb wanted USD$69 for an entire carbie gasket kit. Far out.

MERCMAN.

 98 
 on: November 22, 2017, 03:58:34 PM 
Started by Shirley 2 - Last post by Shirley 2
Mmmm, nice work! The runabout is only rated for max. 110... so would that extra hp be an issue? Certainly worth me thinking about - thanks. On a different tack, what are your thoughts on overhauling the powerhead I have? Is it possible and do you know anyone to recommend?

 99 
 on: November 21, 2017, 04:05:06 PM 
Started by Shirley 2 - Last post by MERCMAN
I have an idea. I can get my hands on a 1975 1500 Long shaft. Apparently it is ceased. Although, I'm sure it has TNT.

Currently on ebay in the USA is a overhauled 90hp block and another listing for a 115hp block which either will bolt straight up to the lower half of the 1500. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Outboard-inline-6-1150-115hp-Overhauled-Powerhead-Warranty/162725389526?hash=item25e33064d6:g:QbMAAOSwBjdZ8KKG&vxp=mtr

All we need do is remove the carbies, flywheel and fuel pump and lines, along with the electrics from the 1500 and then add them all to the 1150 block. There may be a way of even grafting your old cowls on to the result. If not, you can easily place new 1967 decals on to the 1974 cowls.

Thoughts?

MERCMAN.

 100 
 on: November 20, 2017, 06:22:58 PM 
Started by andrewallan - Last post by andrewallan
Didn't realise those flaps made little difference. The thing I did notice when fiddling with my engine was that neither the ?engine manifold flap, not the choke flaps open up anywhere near fully when the throttle is moved forward. No doubt Mark will have great joy in informing me that I've installed the carburettors upside down, or some similar major bit of stupidity on my part.

A

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